Vineyards of Domaine Skouras, Medea
Picture courtesy Domaine Skouras
Not so long back, the only Greek wines individuals knew much about were Retsina and Roditis, 2 moderately-priced offerings that have actually been produced for more than 2000 years. These are still staples at Greek dining establishments all over the world, especially in the United States, however over the previous decade, there has been a good deal of modification with the white wine market in Greece, and the results have actually been absolutely nothing short of inspirational for this little nation. “Today, Greece is flourishing, discovering its ancient cultural customs and varieties and producing first-rate white wines again,” says Ted Diamantis, among the leading importers of Greek white wines in the United States.
Vine growing and white wine making in Greece dates back more than 5000 years; red wine was thought about so essential in the 4th and 5th century BC that is was in some cases utilized a payment for services rendered. White wine production differed, depending upon who was ruling Greece at the time – during Ottoman rule (1453-1821) for instance, Greek vineyards were left unused as the rulers saw no requirement for white wine.
The 1821 Greek War of Self-reliance was amongst the initial steps in reanimating the country’s red wine market, and today the nation’s wine revival that started in the last two decades of the 20th century has led to a wine market that is more highly advanced, and one that has actually welcomed red wine appellations that provide higher identity to the local white wines.
Assyrtiko vineyard on the island of Santorini
Photo courtesy of Gaía Winery
Identity is of the utmost significance when a country (or area) markets their red wine, and today, the wine market of Greece has a stronger red wine personality than ever before, thanks to a variety of aspects. “It’s a really complex nation for red wine,” Diamatis states. “It’s not like Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Malbec from Argentina; there’s a lot more going on there. Crete, the fifth biggest island in the Mediterranean, is among the oldest viticultural locations on the planet; some of the oldest varieties worldwide originated from Crete.”
Then you have a system of red wine appellations called PDO (Secured Classification of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) that were presented early in the 21st century; these classifications are in line with other white wine producing countries of the European Union and have actually helped the Greek white wine market higher identity. Among the best-known PDOs are Lemnos, an island in the North Aegean Sea, where Muscat of Alexandria is produced; Naoussa in West Macedonia where Xinomavro, normally agreed to be Greece’s finest red variety is grown, and Santorini, an island in the South Aegean Sea, north of Crete, where Assyrtiko, among the finest white varieties in the nation, has become one of its most popular red wines.
There are more than 300 native varietals planted today in Greece; let’s look at a few of the most important:
White
Assyrtiko – Assyrtiko, native to Santorini and the Aegean islands produces a dry, high acid wine, one that usually has a strong minerality as well as a salty character; this last an outcome of the vineyards that are near the sea. The maritime influence in these areas provide a significant distinctiveness to these red wines.
Savatiano – The most planted range in the nation, this is the most typical utilized to produce Retsina. Acidity is lower than Assyrtiko, and the red wines have tend to high alcohol.
Malagousia (often spelled Malagouzia) – This white range is discovered mainly in Macedonia in northern Greece. Wines made from Malgousia are fragrant, with fragrances of jasmine, tropical fruit and mint; the white wines tend to have very good acidity and are outstanding with Asian cuisine and most seafood.
Moscofilero – While categorized as a white range, the grape is actually light pink, and produces light, crisp white wines typically meant to be taken in within a few years of the classic date.
Red
Agoritiko – Found mainly in the mountainous region of Peloponnisos, this is one of the country’s finest red varietals, producing red wines with ripe red fruit and distinct spice that have excellent aging potential.
Xinomavro – Thought about the red varietal that yields the longest lived and most complex of Greece’s red wines. Red wines made from Xinomavro have abundant tannins and are rather styled like Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont in northern Italy.
Mandilaria – Planted on the islands of Crete and Santorini, Madliaria is a thick-skinned range that has big tannins, deep color and reasonably low acidity; Mandilaria is typically utilized in blends.
Mavrodaphne – This range produces full-bodied wines, and is typically used to make dessert wines.
Vineyards of Douloufakins Winery, Crete
Picture courtesy Douloufakis Winery
Notes on recommended brand-new releases from Greece:
White
Douloufakis Vidiano 2020 – 100% Vidiano from a single vineyard that was barrel aged. Deep golden yellow; striking scents of pineapple, tropical fruit, orange peel, spiced pear and white pepper. Medium-full with an abundant mid-palate, exceptional complexity, notable perseverance, and a dry, gently natural surface with notes of bell pepper and saffron. Really distinct – take pleasure in over the next 5-7 years. ( 91 )
Domaine Papagiannakos Retsina 2021 (Retsina of Mesogaia) – 100% Savatiano from vineyards in the Attica region, not far from Athens. Brilliant, medium yellow; aromas of pine, melon and yellow flowers. Medium-bodied, this has appealing fresh fruit and an extremely dry, earthy finish. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years with vegetables or fried fish. ( 88 )
Alpha Estate Malagouzia “Single Vineyard Turtles” 2021 – Fragile young yellow; appealing aromas of melon, spearmint and jasmine. Medium-bodied, there is gorgeous varietal fruit, dynamic acidity and beautiful consistency and finesse.; there are notes of orange pulp and red apples in the finish. This is quite a charming, tasty red wine that would be ideal paired with shellfish or blend food. Delight in over the next 2-4 years. Exceptional worth at around $18 on retail racks in America. ( 92 )
Santo Winery Assyrtiko 2020 – 100% Assyrtiko from the island of Santorini. Appealing scents of golden apples, yellow peach and a hint of coriander. Offering an abundant mid-palate, this has excellent intricacy; rich, abundant texture and a lengthy surface with an unique saltiness. Delight in over the next 5-7 years. ( 92 )
Gaía Assyrtiko “Wild Ferment” 2021 – 100% Assyrtiko from vines varying from 60-80 years of age; fermented in steel tanks together with a combination of acacia and oak barrels. Fantastic medium-deep yellow; stunning fragrances of banana, melon and yellow poppy. Medium-full, this has a fantastic rich feel on the taste buds. There is excellent acidity, excellent consistency and varietal pureness, in addition to excellent determination; there is an appealing note of honey in the finish. Displaying charming texture and magnificent intricacy, this is impressive. This would be perfect paired with swordfish or bay scallops. Take pleasure in over the next 5-8 years. ( 94 )
Estate Argyros Cuvée Monsignori 2019 – 100% Assyrtiko from the earliest vines of the Santorini estate on volcanic and sandy soils; some of the vines are as old as 200 years! Offered partial skin contact, this was grown in steel tanks and tonneaux. Brilliant, medium-deep yellow; fragrances of salt, lemon peel and yellow plum. Medium-full with beautiful texture and very good level of acidity, the wood notes are well integrated and there is notable persistence in addition to impressive intricacy and lovely varietal character; the finish has a noticable salinity, which is quite appealing and clearly adds to the overall character of this white wine. Enjoy over the next 4-5 years, especially with shellfish. ( 93 )
Red
Kir-Yianni Naoussa “Cuvée Villages” 2018 – 100% Xinomavro. Intense, medium-deep garnet; appealing scents of bing cherry, increased petals and dried tomatoes. Medium-bodied, with medium-weight tannins, tart acidity, and delicate notes of older oak. This is an easy-drinking, fruit-forward red that can combine well with veggies, poultry or lighter seafood; enjoy over the next 3-4 years. Priced around $18-20 per bottle on American retail shelves, this is an outstanding value. ( 88 )
Kir-Yianni Xinomavro “Ramnista” 2018 – Bright, medium deep garnet; fragrances of wild strawberry, red currant and rhubarb. Medium-bodied, this has medium-weight tannins, appetizing acidity and notes of pepper and tobacco in the finish. Pair this with pepper steak or beef stew; take pleasure in tonight or over the next 3-4 years. ( 88 )
Alpha Estate Xinomavro 2019 – 100% Xinomavro from a single vineyard with 108 year-old ungrafted vines. Brilliant, fragile garnet; fragrances of morel cherry, cranberry, tar and a tip of tobacco. Medium-full with great concentration. Exceptional determination and intricacy with medium-weight tannins. Lovely intricacy and lovely skill. Take pleasure in with poultry and seafood such as tuna over the next 5-7 years. ( 92 )
Domaine Skouras Agiorhitiko “Saint George” 2019 – Keep in mind the different spelling of the varietal. Brilliant, medium deep garnet; aromas of bing and morel cherry, carnation and red poppy. Medium-bodied, this is a fruit-driven red with great level of acidity, moderate tannins and outstanding varietal character. A lighter version of this wine type, this would be satisfying tonight with lots of poultry dishes; delight in over the next 3-5 years. ( 88 )
Domaine Skouras Agioritiko “Grand Cuvée 2017 – The fruit for this wine is sourced from vineyards at 3450 feet above water level. Aromas of maraschino cherry, morel cherry, tomato plant and a hint of nutmeg. Medium-full tannins, excellent perseverance, exceptional intricacy and great level of acidity. This is a beautifully made, age-worthy red that will be at its best in 7-10 years or longer. ( 94 )
Dessert
Estate Argyros Vin Santo 2004 12 Years Barrel Aged – A blend of 80% Assyrtiko, 10% Athiri, 10% Aidani; the berries were sun-dried for 10-12 days and then fermented for two months. Deep amber brown; aromas of caramel, raisin and fig. Medium-full, this has a gently sweet surface with great level of acidity, so the sweetness is not cloying. There is excellent complexity and excellent perseverance; I like the fragile lush quality and the attractive finish with rum, raisin and nutty notes. Enjoy now with a raisin or pound cake or let it age a bit; peak in 5-7 years. (91 )