Nicolas Carmarans utilized to run an outstanding white wine bar in Paris, Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, before transplanting in Aveyron, where his forefathers when made red wine. This natural wine, Maximus, is among several expressions of fer servadou that he makes from various terroirs. It was light, pure, clear and emotional, definitely scrumptious. I promised to discover more red wines made from fer servadou, however up until now, I have actually been not successful– other than, naturally, for the Carmarans cuvées.Claire Naudin Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc Bellis Perennis 2020 I visited Burgundy in early May and one afternoon, early in the trip, I was signed up with
for lunch by two dear good friends. It was our first meal together beyond New York, and we drank this bottle from Claire Naudin, who makes magnificently pure, textured red wines that are full of life.It originated from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, a modest area high on the slope above the popular and expensive vineyards of the Côte d’Or. Historically, grapes were sometimes tough to ripen there, however in the last few years the area has taken advantage of the environment crisis and provides relatively excellent values.This bottle, served in a simple bistro, was far from the most extensive wine we shared in our meals together. However it recorded a feeling of liberation from pandemic restrictions, its depth and deliciousness revealing the joy of relationship and satisfaction in each other’s company.Stefan Vetter Franken Sylvaner GK 2017 This is not the first time I’ve discussed Stefan Vetter’s silvaner, which he, like lots of in Germanic locations, spells”sylvaner.”He’s fanatical about showing the possibilities of this grape, which has so frequently been typecast as easy and pleasant at best.Mr. Vetter farms old vineyards, many on
steep, terraced slopes needing intensive manual work. The GK bottling, which I consumed in January, originates from the Kalbstein vineyard in the village of Gambach. It was complicated, bracing and endless, gloriously mineral and saline. A wine like this requires a re-examining of the
potential of this grape and, actually, all grapes written off by traditional wisdom.Emrich-Sch önleber Nahe Frühlingsplätzchen Grosses Gëwachs 2015 Over the course of a supper in late January at Noreetuh, the contemporary Hawaiian white wine location in the East Town, I examined many exceptional German rieslings. None stood apart to me more than this young dry riesling from Emrich-Schönleber.